Let's talk Relaxers!

There is still a huge percentage of people with textured hair that choose to get a relaxer.  You CAN have relaxed hair that is healthy AND growing IF it is done right, the proper products are used, and you keep up the maintenance.

ALL relaxers contain hydroxide.  This chemical processes the hair by opening the cuticle and penetrating the cortex where they break the disulfide bonds and cause the hair to become relaxed, resulting in a looser or straighter texture. Most relaxers are strongly alkaline and have a high pH.  It is extremely important to know WHICH relaxer to use on your clients as well as yourself.

There are FIVE relaxer types:

·        Sodium Hydroxide (Regular, Super, Special)

·        Calcium/Guanidine Hydroxide (Time Released/Sensitive Scalp)

·        Lithium Hydroxide (Lo-Lye)

·        Potassium Hydroxide

Sodium Hydroxide relaxers have a tendency to:

·        Be irritating to the scalp

·        Cause less drying

·        Leave the hair with more sheen

·        Penetrate the cuticle at a faster rate

No-Lye or Low-Lye relaxers (Calcium, Guanidine, Potassium, and Lithium) have a tendency to:

·        Be less irritating to the scalp

·        Leave the hair in need of more frequent conditioning and treatments

·        Penetrate the cuticle at a slower rate

·        Be more drying on the hair and scalp – the hair will need to be moisturized more often to avoid dryness and breakage

Please stay away from “Box Relaxers” and seek a professional who has been trained on the proper procedures for chemical application.  There are many factors to consider when selecting relaxers:

·        Porosity – the hairs ability to absorb chemicals (high, normal, low)

·        Texture – size and shape of the hair strand (fine, medium, thick/coarse)

·        Timing – do NOT exceed manufacturer’s processing time (application choices:  virgin, retouch, corrective under-processed, corrective over-processed, and permanent color treated hair)

Relaxer TIP:

·        To maintain the integrity of the hair, volume, and elasticity….relax hair ONLY to 65%-75% straightness!

·        Do NOT relax previously relaxed hair (new growth only) unless you’re performing a corrective chemical relaxer.

·        Try to extend the time between relaxers (no sooner than every 6-8 weeks).

·        Do NOT perform a relaxer application with out the base application (protect the scalp).

·        Always do a consultation and keep records of results.

·        Have your clients sign a Hold Harmless Agreement stating that they are aware of the risks of chemical services.

·        Everyone isn’t a candidate for chemical services……..